Wander through India

DAY XIV – LOSSAR TO MANALI ( 152 KM)

DESTINATION : MANALI, HIMACHAL

1. The day started early and it was really cold out when i went to prepare the INDOMITABLE for the trip ahead. As he was warming up we loaded the entire luggage and took a thermos of hot tea with us for the day ahead. By 0700 hrs we were ready to roll once again.

2. The road actually deteriorated immediately after the village and it was all big rocks that could easily create any kind of a major issue in the undercarriage, so progress was slow and in the first gear or maybe second gear all the way. The scenic beauty of the place was mesmerising as we were stopping again and again to click pictures though i knew that i had to hurry to cross as many Nullahs as possible before noon time. But when one is in the land of the Gods what can one do other than be awestruck.

3. There was hardly any other soul on the road in the morning as we continued forward with our first target being Kunzum Pass and visiting the shrine of Kunzum Mata.Kunzum pass was reached at 0840 hrs and is situated at an elevation of 4950 mt(15000 ft).The Sigri Peak and Bara-Sigri Glacier which is the second longest glacier could be seen clearly in the morning sunshine as we paid our obescience to the shrine. It is said that all vehicles have to take go around the shrine in order to ensure that they complete what lay ahead without any failures. We too did the same and spend some amount of time out there .Kunzum Pass connects the Lahul Valley with the Spiti Valley.The pass closes in winter on account of heavy snowfall.The pass is unique bcoz on one side one can see the snow covered peaks of the ChandraBaga range while on the other side is the cold desert of the Spiti Valley.The pass has its own will as the winter approaches but for now it was devoid of any snow.

4. From Kunzum pass we ascended towards Batal but first on the agenda was the diversion to Chander Taal which arrived after 08 kms and there is a board too informing those who wish to deviate. The road on which we were travelling was extremely narrow and hugging the mountain side with loose gravel and stones. Definitely not a pleasure to drive upon. The car did take a few hits on the under guard due to loose flying stones and that did worry me .Batal was reached by 0943 and then i hurried on to Chotta Dara.I met Akshay at Batal who had made some new friends and soon we were introduced all around and thereafter we proceeded in a loose knit group.

5. I was lucky to cross Chhota Dara without any incident and i did a recce of the same before attempting it. It consists of two streams at two paces and the length is about 100 yards each. The crossing is tricky there is no doubt on it and requires careful driving more especially in a low GC clearance.Chotta Dara was reached 14 km after Batal.

6. The scenic surroundings soon had changed as we progressed our journey and shades of green started to make their presence felt and the cold stark mountains were left in the distance. Snow was still visible in the high peaks all around and the entire feeling to be out here was surreal. We indulged in numerous photo shoots but there was always the thought of crossing the remaining nullahs just before Grampoo as early as possible. I did cross a few stretches which were really unsuitable for a sedan in case there would have been more water flow but thankfully this part of the year it was all under control and manageable.

7. Chattru was reached by noon and we did not stop to have any refreshments other than tea that we carried and pushed forward. There are four nullahs as per me between Chattru and Grampoo that are to be watched out for and the first two are the real tricky ones for they are long and road twists as one crosses them so no easy task to cross them in fast flowing water with a vehicle which has a low GC.Anyways i did the recce and then placed stones at points where I felt that the wheel might dip deeper in to the water and with my companion guiding me I attempted the nullahs.It was a feeling of victory to cross each of them and I felt jubilant on the car's performance and stability after each obstacle. We reached Grampoo by 1340 hrs and decided to stop for lunch and a well deserved break. The Spiti Valley had officially ended for me and I had left the Abode of Gods far behind and i really was not liking this.

8. Ahead lay Rohtang La , again not very conducive for Sedan but there was no other way to reach Manali.Soon we were zipping on tarmac after along time and reached Rohtang La by 1525 hrs after a brief stop .The weather changed dramatically at the pass and soon I was engulfed in heavy fog and slight rain. The visibility was reduced to half a metre and i had absolutely no inkling of the road ahead for the simple reason that i just could not see it. I drove very slowly desperately wishing for the fog to clear but that was not e case to be , the entire stretch was covered in absolute silence within the car for both of us knew that we were in reality driving totally blind.

9. Eventually i reached Gulaba and thereafter Kothi.It was a rainy afternoon and I was back in civilization. The biker group had long before separated out and i knew that we would be meeting up in Manali , so no worries on that account. Reached Manali by 1720 hrs and Akshay was there to meet me in the outskirts and he had booked a room for us too as we were without reservations and he led me to Old Manali.That evening was spent in great company as we relaxed after the long and arduous journey that we had undertaken and seen vistas that i could have never imagines, drove on places that were unthinkable to even be attempted if someone had suggested whilst I was in the planning stage. It was a journey of a lifetime and i was richer in terms of experience and good will imbibed in the Gompas.

10. Odometer for the day. Lossar: 57308 - Manali: 57460