Wander through India

DAY XIV – LOSSAR TO MANALI ( 152 KM)

DESTINATION : MANALI, HIMACHAL

1. The day started early and it was really cold out when i went to prepare the INDOMITABLE for the trip ahead. As he was warming up we loaded the entire luggage and took a thermos of hot tea with us for the day ahead. By 0700 hrs we were ready to roll once again.

2. The road actually deteriorated immediately after the village and it was all big rocks that could easily create any kind of a major issue in the undercarriage, so progress was slow and in the first gear or maybe second gear all the way. The scenic beauty of the place was mesmerising as we were stopping again and again to click pictures though i knew that i had to hurry to cross as many Nullahs as possible before noon time. But when one is in the land of the Gods what can one do other than be awestruck.

3. There was hardly any other soul on the road in the morning as we continued forward with our first target being Kunzum Pass and visiting the shrine of Kunzum Mata.Kunzum pass was reached at 0840 hrs and is situated at an elevation of 4950 mt(15000 ft).The Sigri Peak and Bara-Sigri Glacier which is the second longest glacier could be seen clearly in the morning sunshine as we paid our obescience to the shrine. It is said that all vehicles have to take go around the shrine in order to ensure that they complete what lay ahead without any failures. We too did the same and spend some amount of time out there .Kunzum Pass connects the Lahul Valley with the Spiti Valley.The pass closes in winter on account of heavy snowfall.The pass is unique bcoz on one side one can see the snow covered peaks of the ChandraBaga range while on the other side is the cold desert of the Spiti Valley.The pass has its own will as the winter approaches but for now it was devoid of any snow.

4. From Kunzum pass we ascended towards Batal but first on the agenda was the diversion to Chander Taal which arrived after 08 kms and there is a board too informing those who wish to deviate. The road on which we were travelling was extremely narrow and hugging the mountain side with loose gravel and stones. Definitely not a pleasure to drive upon. The car did take a few hits on the under guard due to loose flying stones and that did worry me .Batal was reached by 0943 and then i hurried on to Chotta Dara.I met Akshay at Batal who had made some new friends and soon we were introduced all around and thereafter we proceeded in a loose knit group.

5. I was lucky to cross Chhota Dara without any incident and i did a recce of the same before attempting it. It consists of two streams at two paces and the length is about 100 yards each. The crossing is tricky there is no doubt on it and requires careful driving more especially in a low GC clearance.Chotta Dara was reached 14 km after Batal.

6. The scenic surroundings soon had changed as we progressed our journey and shades of green started to make their presence felt and the cold stark mountains were left in the distance. Snow was still visible in the high peaks all around and the entire feeling to be out here was surreal. We indulged in numerous photo shoots but there was always the thought of crossing the remaining nullahs just before Grampoo as early as possible. I did cross a few stretches which were really unsuitable for a sedan in case there would have been more water flow but thankfully this part of the year it was all under control and manageable.

7. Chattru was reached by noon and we did not stop to have any refreshments other than tea that we carried and pushed forward. There are four nullahs as per me between Chattru and Grampoo that are to be watched out for and the first two are the real tricky ones for they are long and road twists as one crosses them so no easy task to cross them in fast flowing water with a vehicle which has a low GC.Anyways i did the recce and then placed stones at points where I felt that the wheel might dip deeper in to the water and with my companion guiding me I attempted the nullahs.It was a feeling of victory to cross each of them and I felt jubilant on the car's performance and stability after each obstacle. We reached Grampoo by 1340 hrs and decided to stop for lunch and a well deserved break. The Spiti Valley had officially ended for me and I had left the Abode of Gods far behind and i really was not liking this.

8. Ahead lay Rohtang La , again not very conducive for Sedan but there was no other way to reach Manali.Soon we were zipping on tarmac after along time and reached Rohtang La by 1525 hrs after a brief stop .The weather changed dramatically at the pass and soon I was engulfed in heavy fog and slight rain. The visibility was reduced to half a metre and i had absolutely no inkling of the road ahead for the simple reason that i just could not see it. I drove very slowly desperately wishing for the fog to clear but that was not e case to be , the entire stretch was covered in absolute silence within the car for both of us knew that we were in reality driving totally blind.

9. Eventually i reached Gulaba and thereafter Kothi.It was a rainy afternoon and I was back in civilization. The biker group had long before separated out and i knew that we would be meeting up in Manali , so no worries on that account. Reached Manali by 1720 hrs and Akshay was there to meet me in the outskirts and he had booked a room for us too as we were without reservations and he led me to Old Manali.That evening was spent in great company as we relaxed after the long and arduous journey that we had undertaken and seen vistas that i could have never imagines, drove on places that were unthinkable to even be attempted if someone had suggested whilst I was in the planning stage. It was a journey of a lifetime and i was richer in terms of experience and good will imbibed in the Gompas.

10. Odometer for the day. Lossar: 57308 - Manali: 57460

AT KUNZUM MATA

THE ROADS LEAD US ON

VIEW TO BE REMEMBERED

JUST COLOURS

FOR REMEMBRANCE

AFTER CHHOTA DARA COMPLETION

ROADS ?

WE CROSSED THIS ALSO

THE INDOMITABLE

ON THE PATHWAY - ITS ONES FAITH THAT KEEPS ONE GOING

JUST FOR MEMORIES

FRIENDS SINCE LONG

PEACE AND TRANQUILITY

AT KUNZUM PASS

CHANDRA BAGA RIVER

BRIDGES TO CONNECT @ BATAL

THE ROAD VANISHES

KUNZUM MATA BLESSES ALL THOSE WHO TRAVEL

LAKE OF THE MOON - BECKONS

FREE AND FAST

FRIENDS WITH A COMMON DRIVE

THE INDOMITABLE - SHOULDER TO SHOULDER WITH THE BEST

PATHS LIKE THESE TEACH TOLERATION

PRAYER FLAGS FLUTTER IN THE SUN

NATURE PRESENTS HERSELF TO US

ALL JOURNEYS HAVE SECRET DESTINATIONS

THE JOURNEY AND NOT THE ARRIVAL MATTERS

BARA SIGRI GLACIER

BIKING ON THE MOUNTAIN TRAILS

ONLY ONE VEHICLE AT ONE TIME

DAY IX – RANGRIK TO LOSSAR ( 60 KM)

DESTINATION : LOSSAR, HIMACHAL

1. So my time in the Spiti Valley was coming to an end as i prepared to journey towards Lossar and this marked the graduation of my Expedition in to the terminal phase but what lay ahead was discouraged by many to not be attempted especially in the INDOMITABLE. But the situation had shaped up in a way to propel me to attempt which in the initial planning phase was not even considered by me.

2. I was planning to tackle the dangers of Chhota Dara ,Batal-Grampoo stretch in a sedan and then drive all the way back to where i had begun this fantastic journey "The Land Of Seven Islands-Mumbai".Anyways that was to come tomorrow , for today I had a easy run to Lossar and then attempt the trek to "Lake of the Moon-ChanderTaal"

3. After a hearty breakfast we started towards Lossar and bid adieu to the Kaza Valley and I knew that I would definitely be back to this place nestled so far away from the maddening world that I have been living in the years to come. Our journey was to take us through some small villages and at an average elevation of 4000 mts.

4. But fate somehow had something else stored for us as my companion was not feeling too good this morning and as the journey progressed so did his health deteriorate. Though I was carrying a basic medicine kit to cover most issues he did insist on his own medication and somehow we were not able to provide relief , but there was no way other than the way forward and so I told him to hold on as I moved ahead as fast as I could .Finally as we were reaching Lossar his condition did improve and he started feeling better but was weak .I reached Lossar by 1130 hrs .

5. I must say that Kaza-Losar route is one of the real beauties of Spiti Valley. The views are just extra ordinary and we passed sumling , Moorang,Hull,Kiatoand Hanse villages. The Ke Monastery beckoned us in the distance sparkling in the morning sun nestled high up in the mountains as we continued our journey. Reaching Lossar I found out the place that we were staying and got the place opened up, yes we were the only guests that day out there. I debated the visit to Chandertaal but my companion was in no condition to undertake the same and I did not feel comfortable leaving him and attempting the trek alone so dropped the plan of Chandertaal, at least in this trip.

6. The day was spent in leisurely exploring the village of Lossar, interacting with the teaching staff of the government senior secondary school and generally doing nothing great. The power was not available as usual but by now i had grown used to the idea of staying without power for extended duration of time. As the evening approached we were treated to delicious dinner cooked on homemade sigri, I really do not know what it is called and ate our dinner in the warmth of burning wood and solar lights.

7. Tomorrow would be a crucial test for me as well as the INDOMITABLE as we cross the treacherous Nullahs , conquer two passes and reach the maddening civilization that we really did not miss these past 12 days.

8. Odometer for the day. Rangrik: 57251 - Lossar: 57308