Wander through India : KUTCH EXPEDITION 2014 : The Little Rann of Kutch beckons

# DAY II : GandhiNagar-Zainabad

13. Early in the morning I turned the INDOMITABLE westwards on the State Highway that transverse throughout the countryside connecting one region with the other. The National Highways are meant to cross over from one end of the country to the other but it is the State Highway that is the lifeline for the local population.

14. The destination for the day was Zainabad, a desert town on the fringes of the Little Rann. However early in the morning I was on my way to visit the Panch Dev temple within Gandhinagar. The visit was very rejuvenating as early morning visits to temples are very soul stirring. In my opinion I have not yet seen a city as planned as Gandhinagar, everything was so systematic and laid out in a proper manner with wide roads which have been designed to cater to voluminous amount of traffic , just the right amount of traffic directions and signboards even the various government buildings and offices projected confidence and positivity. The first stop was Adalaj, I heard about this place when I was just browsing through what all are unique for Gujarat. Adalaj village is famous for its Step well which is one of the largest in this country.

15. Step wells were built in the erstwhile era for storing water as well as were a source of congregation of the royalty for their recreational/religious purposes. They were built on old trade routes in the earlier era.The architecture was very detailed and intricate and depicted themes related to those times. The temperature is cooler inside the bowels and in the case of the step well at Adalaj , it comprises of five levels and each level depicts fine architecture and carvings.

16. From Adalaj I turned on SH 41 towards the dusty town of Kalol which was a few kms away. Post Kalol I was truly wandering on interior state highways passing through small towns called Kadi, Rampura, Mandal etc. The Narmada which is a lifeline for agriculture in Gujarat and feeds the hungry fields was never far as the Narmada Canal pumped water into the interiors. Lush green fields bear testimony to this vision.

17. By 1340 I was at Zainabad. My stay was at the Desert Coursers, a remarkable setup right at the fringes of the Little Rann managed ably by My Moulik the resident manager of the entire place. They were open for lunch when I arrived but I already had my lunch at one of the road side eateries on the lonely state highways which I had come to love. There is something special about food cooked on wodden logs and made to order.

18. I explained my requirement to Mr Moulik that I wanted to enter the Little Rann for some distance and spend time doing some photography. Soon I was introduced to Mr Iqbal who was the owner of Desert Coursers and he gave me crisp precise instructions as to how to enter the Rann and most importantly how to get out; for when the night falls the Rann acquires a different feel altogether.

19. Accordingly I left at around four in the evening and the next few hours were one of the most prized memory of the trip as I found myself in the company of various kind of migratory birds who visit the place as well as the Khurs ( Asiatic Wild Ass) . The feeling of having the entire Rann to oneself take some time getting used to but I made most of those moments and watched one of the most brilliant sunsets that I have ever seen as the day drew to a close with me in the middle of the nothingness.

20. The drive back was one of utmost concentration as darkness had fallen quickly and I realized that it is definitely no joke to be out in the Rann all alone , the probability of getting lost are immense and I took my time getting out of there.

21. Finally I reached back to the resort and had a wonderful hot dinner followed by great conversation. My stay was in one of the most admirable set ups that I had ever stayed in and all credit goes to the administrations and staff of Desert Coursers, definitely a place to stay for those who are venturing to this side of the country.

ODO for the day 81957.