Saturday 19 November 2016

Mandini : Garhwal n Monsoons ( The climb to Paturi .... )

Mandini :


DAY III : The next day morning i woke up to heavy rain laden clouds that hung low on the Himalayan mountain peaks. soon it started raining and i just lay inside the tent for there was no possibility to venture outside , the head porter Mr Prem Singhji i had the tea can boiling away soon under the make shift kitchen shelter and soon there was  a hot cup of sweet tea in my hand,  around 1030 hrs the weather cleared a bit and it was decided to have a quick breakfast and make a move . Two chapattis with pickle and tea later Umeid and me  were ready to move while the rest of the team would pack up and follow us later. We immediately went into the forests that surrounded us as the path lay through them , the mist had descended in full force and it presented a very eerie feeling with fallen gigantic tree trunks covered with moss with mist and rain  all around ,walking slowly but steadily we made our way forward .

11.          After around 30 min the rains returned but there was no turning back as we kept moving ahead , the path lay through the  forests , traversing ridges  going over rocks and just about everything else , i had my photographic gear with me and the entire set up including me was covered in a poncho while the walking stick helped me to gain a sure footing over loose slippery mud and leaves .walking in the rain  on the forested slopes we just kept going , step by step  feet by feet towards the destination for the day . By around 1230 hrs we reached a massive rock overhang that offered some protection from the rain and we decided to wait for the rest of the team to catch up . I was shivering by this time as the sweat was now getting exposed to the falling temp outside , but there was nothing much that could be done . In around 45 min the remaining team trooped in one by one each n everyone wet and shivering. It was decided to wait here for a while to let the rains abate and we all made small talk as best as we could considering the circumstances. The cave like structure was known as Kanera cave and is around 4 kms from sandera . On occasions trekkers have camped here when unable to proceed ahead but there is no provision to erect a tent , just light the fire for warmth , prepare some food and curl up inside sleeping bags to wait out the night  but we were proceeding ahead , at around three it was decided to move as the rains were not abating  and camp site was still two hours away and no one had eaten anything . Eventually we reached campsite Paturi located on a narrow ridge with the ground falling away rapidly on both sides.

12.          The young porters rigged up the tent quickly the moment there was a gap in the rainfall and i gratefully stepped in . The day has been long tiring and wet . I quickly organized my stuff ... cleaned my walking trousers of all the mud but could not do anything about its wetness .. changed into a fresh set of dry clothes and thereafter cleaned the entire photographic gear as there was heavy moisture all around . Meanwhile hot Maggi was prepared and by now the rains had dropped hence the kitchen shelter was set up and a camp fire was burning away to provide heat n warmth to wet souls all around .. (to be contd )

13.          After thought: In order to give an insight in the terrain that we encountered from sandera to paturi , it was primarily comprised of walking across  mountain slopes traversing narrow ridges that connected the mountains together and provuded a narrow trail to walk . The entire route involved lot of climbing up and down along the trail for there was no well-defined trail to begin with. The major landmarks on this leg were Devkhark ( where shepherds stay put in their wanderings , Kanera dhar , Kanera cave and finally paturi ) .


14.          Interesting note on shepherds: There are shepherds that one encounters on these lonely lands who for the entire season starting from April till Oct wander out here in search of pastures for the sheep . He is generally accompanied by 3-4 huge sheep dogs . The villagers in this region give their sheep to him to rear and graze and thus he collects sheep from the villagers and takes them far from the villages into these lands to graze . He spends the entire monsoon and later part of the summer alone with his flock in these forested lands and meadows and as the winter approaches he is forced downwards further and further  towards the villages until finally he reaches the village itself where then the sheep is sheared and his duty for that year done . He charges around 500 for each sheep for the season in addition to his ration from the owner and in case there are births which happen in the interim he is given an award of 200 – 300 . At any given point of time his flock numbers around 500 -800 , thus he earns around 1 to 1.5 lakh in one particular season . But i just wondered on the tough life he leads, alone except for the dogs brazing out the onslaught of rains , fog , wetness , trying to manage the sheep in the mist on guard from the predators definitely needs mental will to do this for months at a stretch . 





























































































































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