Wander through India : NORTHERN EXPEDITION 2014 : DAY IX , The Siachen Trail

# DAY IX: Deskit-Siachen Base Camp-Sumur

#60. This day was one of the red lettered days in the whole trip. This day we were supposed to go right up to the Siachen Base Camp. However whether we would be allowed to reach one of few elusive places within Ladakh Sector, that would be decided when we reached the TCP @Sasoma.

#61. The morning was not very encouraging as I was able to see a huge dust storm in the horizon on the mountains and the cloud cover was grey and dark like it was snowing in the general direction of where I was supposed to be travelling. The GH owner assured me that the day would be a clear one and these occurrences were common.

#62. Accordingly we moved towards the Deskit Gompa where we wanted to take part in the morning prayers .We assembled in the main prayer hall by around 0615 hours and took our predetermined place normally reserved for the guests. Soon the monks started coming in and each had its own determined place. Each monk firstly payed his respect to the idol of the Padmasambhava and thereafter took his place. The seating was in line throughout the length of the prayer hall with a desk in front on which the sutras were placed which was supposed to be read collectively.

#63. Once everyone had assembled, the butter lamps were lit and placed in front of the idols of the various forms of Lord Buddha .Young monks distributed salted tea to all including us which was really delicious .The prayers started soon after and the hall reverberated with the deep throatings of chants and the glow of the butter lamps, a sublime atmosphere indeed.

#64. We left the prayer hall at around eight back towards the GH where we had a delicious breakfast of Ladakhi bread and eggs. Finally close to nine we were ready to roll for the day. Soon on empty roads we reached the cut of Khalsar and thereafter turned left towards Panamik, sumur. This road I believe is much more picturesque than the one towards Deskit.The villages of Sumur , Panamik were crossed soon which are around 18 and 30 kms from the cut.

#65. As we travelled on the road ahead there was hardly any traffic and after Panamik we were all alone on the narrow road extending into the mountains ahead. The village of staksha was soon crossed as we continued ahead. The landscape was truly awe inspiring now as there were towering mountain peaks all around and the narrow lonely road snaked its way through them. The road had experienced heavy rock fall for almost two weeks and the devastating result could be seen. Soon we were at the Sasoma TCP where after few discussions and phone calls we were permitted to move ahead . That was the major bottleneck and I was literally grinning as I crossed it.

#66. The road deteriorated even further thanks to the recent rock fall and snow and grew lonelier by the metre. The solitude was truly epic and with towering mountains on either side I felt very apprehensive driving through with the fear of imminent rock fall was ever present. Till date I have rarely been apprehensive or worried with fear but yes on this road I was.. The fear of the unknown and getting stuck in one of the loneliest stretches ever seen. The vistas were truly inspiring with raw power and beauty. Base camp was reached and there we visited the various troop formations stationed, payed homage to the shrine of OP Baba, the guardian angel for the troops who trek to the glacier. The visit to the Siachen War Memorial will remain etched in memory and so will be the visual of the glacier from where the trek starts for the troops. The black ice melting in the afternoon sun forming rivulets of glacial streams was quite a relevation.

#67. Base camp was truly a different world, sadly not everything can be written down in public forums but a visit to a place like this is worth something much more tangible. By early evening we were ready for our journey back and we were cautioned to drive soon through the mountains and not stop often for the winds were building and so were the dangers on the lonely road. By the time we left a huge sand storm could be seen on our right and I gunned the Indomitable on the road.

#68. It was a literal race on a lonely narrow curvy road hugging the mountain floor with broken surface and boulders strewn all over and the sand storm breathing down on me. But somehow we kept the momentum going and with absolutely no stoppages crossed the designated area safely. Once I reached the diversion to Saser La I stopped for a breather and for a moment did consider taking the left towards the hair pin turns filled road climbing up the mountains to the elusive Saser La.However in view that the evening was fast approaching and I had a long way ahead and going up an absolutely militarized route in the late evening was like the perfect recipe for some hard questioning later , I reluctantly dropped the idea but am sure one day I will be on that road overcoming the hair pin bends J

#69. Soon I retraced my route and crossed Sasoma TCP and thereafter Panamik towards my destination of Sumur where I was supposed to stay for the night. Enroute we filled petrol from the military grade jerry cans that we were carrying .Sumur was reached by around six in the evening and in the fading light we located our guest house called Hotel Mansarovar, an absolutely delightful place to say tucked in the bylanes of the town. The lady host served us hot tea with a welcoming smile and that concluded the end to just about a perfect day in our Ladakh Odyssey. ODO stood at 75330.