Wander through India : SPITI EXPEDITION ( DAY VI CHITKUL TO KALPA )

DAY6: CHITKUL – KALPA (87 KM)

Destination: Kalpa, Himachal

1.       I was determined to see the sun rise on the mountains and accordingly had decided to set an alarm. The night before was freezing cold and I had slept with all the body parts covered including feet and head. The glass windows on all sides were really not helping much and finally I was under two heavy quilts. Suddenly in the middle of the night I got up and blurry eyed looked at the window where I perceived a reddish tinge on the glass. To my fuzzy mind I could relate it as the early morning glow of the sun just about to rise. I nudged my companion up and as he blinked at the glass for some time he deduced that it was the reflection of the night lamp filament on the glass. I found the incident quite funny the next morning for seeing the sun rise was so much on my minds the entire night.

2.       The views of the Chitkul early morning with the towering Himalayan ranges were simply a treat to the eyes and the mind. It was freezing cold when we finally ventured outside and clicking pics were an evolution in itself but we were determined not to let the opportunity go by. It was turning out to be a clear morning and the wind was silent, so a perfect start to the day. After some spectacular photo shoots and a visual treat to the eyes we were ready to roll after a hot cup of tea. My customary inspection of the car done as I proceeded to clean the glass I found that the entire glass was totally frosted during the night, such was the drop in temperature. Eventually using warm water I got the glass cleared and by 0645 hrs we were on our way to our next destination, Kalpa.As an information byte the caretaker of the hotel informed us that the entire region had been without electricity close to a month and half.T he villages still further up in the mountains were still waiting for the electricity to be restored and most likely this year that would not be possible as winter was fast approaching.

3.       We retraced our steps back till Karchcham dam where we had deviated from the NH -22 and turned right towards Powari .I actually left Chitkul with a heavy heart for it was such a pristine place and so soothing to the mind and heart. On the way towards Sangla we indulged in numerous photographic captures as though we were attempting to take away part of the place with us as we departed .I am sure that I will once again visit Chitkul and say hello to the Baspa river .Breakfast was at Sangla and it consisted of parathas and tea in the rising sun with the backdrop of the Raldang Peaks.Karcham was reached by 1000 hrs and I decided to back further back till Tapri to top up the fuel tank as I was somehow not very sure I the Powari petrol pump was operational or not.

4.       At the petrol pump I saw a pick up filling up spare diesel in big canisters and on enquiry came to know that he had come all the way from Pooh. My most repeated question in all the conversations was about a certain road block that was on the way to Pooh and the news received was not very encouraging. I was in constant touch with my hotel at Pooh and Kaza to get constant updates about the road up .As I reached Karcham post topping up from Tapri and took the NH -22 towards Powari , I crossed the right turn deviation to Chitkul , a place time wrapped and secluded in a pretty shell. We reached Shongtong by 1155 hrs.

5.       Initially the NH-22 was super smooth and I had begun to hope that contrary to reports received where it was said that the Karchcham- Powari stretch was bad , it was going to be a ride in the park. However all hopes were soon dispelled as the road disappeared and I was soon driving on the lunar surface participating in a lunar expedition. The place was a classic example of raw beauty and harsh terrain and I had never ever seen places like these and driving through mountains with no idea what lay beyond the next turn was a feeling in itself. I loved and reveled in each difficulty that sprang up and the resolve to progress strengthened with each passing kilometer. The thought which came in to the mind was “ The More Difficult The Journey
The Greater Is the Purification”

6.       My driving skills were being validated at each and every step with different road conditions with an unmatched desolate beauty all around. As thought we soon reached Powari petrol pump which was closed on account of the entire area slowly sinking down. We reached Powari by 1205 hrs covering a distance of 77 km.From Powari one needs to take the diversion going left and climb up towards Reckong Peo to reach Kalpa.The climb to Recokng Peo is of a very steep incline and at one particular stretch of around 40-50 mts is really very bad with only one vehicle that can move at one time. In the rainy season I suppose that it will be a real tricky climb.Anyways we were able to do the stretch in the first gear .Just before Reckong Peo we came across a car wash station and the car was really looking like a rally participant by this stage. As we had time on our hands we decided to go in for a car wash and accordingly stopped out there. I think it was the first time that the car was getting a wash in such a breathtaking locale with a backdrop of the Kinner Kailash Range. After a thorough inner and external cleaning session we proceeded towards the town of Reckong Peo.

7.       Kalpa is situated at a height of 2960 mts above sea level and the pride of the place is the Kinnaur Kailash mountain range which is at a height of 7000 mts and is suppoed to be the winter abode of Lord Shiva. There is the sacred Shivling that changes colour with the falling sun rays and is a 79 feet uncut rock face.Reckong Peo is at a height of 2290 mt which is roughly 7300 feet. In the later part of the expedition I would be touching 15000 feet.

8.       From Reckon Peo we proceeded towards Kalpa and reached our destination by 1415 hrs after covering a total distance of 87 km from Chitkul including the trip to Tapri and back. The Kinner Kailash hotel managed by Himachal tourism is amongst the best located hotels offering a spectacular and unrestricted view of Kinner Kailash peak. We indulged in extensive photography and after settling in the hotel I used the camp chair that I had purchased from Decathalon to sit in the afternoon sun as I relaxed after the strenuous drive. It was pure divine bliss as the feeling of where I had reached slowly sunk in as my eyes drank in the beauty of the Kinner Kailash mountain range right in front of me.

9.       After a while we decided to explore the town of Reckong Peo and accordingly moved .It was a small bustling hill town and I simply love the feel of small hill towns. We parked the car in the town parking lot and proceeded on foot, the walk was good as it helped to stretch the legs. Decided to have some thupka in the nearby hotel as the weather was getting colder in the approaching evening. After some time we decided to go back as I wanted to catch the views of the Kinner Kailash in the setting sun.

10.   I really went overboard clicking the pics as every moment the setting sun rays changed the texture of the mountain and one could only gasp and marvel at the splendor and beauty all around. The night shots did not come out that well but I was happy just to be there .Dinner was simple and thereafter I settled down to write the events of the day and call in a night as tomorrow I would be attempting to cross the first of the road blocks that I had been hearing about so much.

11.   Odometer reading for the day . CHITKUL : 56681 - KALPA : 56768