Wander through India

# DAY XII : Spangmik-Hanle

#94. We were supposed to travel on the dirt gravel track from Spangmik to Hanle covering the villages of Maan, ,Meraak and finally Chushul before reaching Hanle. The route immediately after leaving the village of Spangmik deteriorated and was full of rocks and dried mountain streams. By 0730 we were on our way . The going was really slow as we had to chart the route very carefully considering the obstacles ahaead.The route was along the Pangong and by 0830 we were at Maan.

#95. Here we had to make a decision of whether to continue on the route ahead else turn back and move towards Hanle via the Erath route. Considering the time that we had taken to cover close to nine Kms and having a pre conceived notion based on inputs that the Erath Route was tarred and easy to cover , we turned back as reaching Hanle was more important. I was faced with many decisions out here for there were so many lakes to be seen in this region and also some iconic routes but whether we could see what we wanted to depended on time and space .

#96. Anyhow we turned back and retraced the path towards Spangmik. Afer Spangmik I gunned the INDOMITABLE towards Tangtse as we had to reach there and then turn towards Erath. I reached Tang tse by 1030 and for few minutes I just stopped the vehicle and debated whether to head back to Leh and then return via the Changthang route or to push on the Erath route . The decision had to be made at this crossroad for time and distance were playing a factor in this .

#97. Somehow we decided to move ahead on the Erath route towards Hanle. My vision of a tarred road disintegrated immediately as I passed throught a sector undergoing road construction and hence could absolutely make no speed for then the tyres would take a beating. After a agonizing 17 km I finally was clear of the under construction sector and came across something of a beauty – Harong Wetlands.This is a marvelous high altitude eco system and sustains multiple plants and birds who co exist peacefully.

#98. The beauty of this place was such that in spite of my tearing hurry I could not make haste and spent close to 30 minutes just soaking in the pretty picture of herds of Yak grazing on the yellow vegetation under the cover of snow cloud mountains while geese and other aquatic birds played in the glacial streams .It was the setting of a perfect idyllic morning and if I was not destined to cover such a large journey I would stayed at this place for the day itself.

#99. We had to leave such a magical place with a heavy heart and proceed ahead. The road condition had improved and we made good pace and soon reached Parma. The TCP out here allowed us to proceed only after we were able to show some proper documentation, hence it is important to note that maybe without proper permits this road too might not be accessible if one needs to reach Chushul . After Parma the road just disappeared and for the next 60 Kms it was a total dirt track under construction hence the progress was agonisingly slow . I had reached the limits of my patience as I desperately wanted to reach Chushul for the route to Tsaga La was still to be covered.

#100. The INDOMITABLE literally crawled on the heavy dirt tracks sliding sideways many a time on the heavy dirt that was present. The heat also kept building up and with no road markers or signs I had no idea about how far was chushul and had to increasingly rely on the GREF crews for references.Chushul was finally reached in the afternoon midday heat at 1400 hrs.

#101. After a short break of 10 minutes and showing our permits to the Indian Army personnel at the TCP we proceeded ahead towards Rezang La . Out ideas of visiting Mirpal Tso were totally shelved as I was literally clawing for time. This sector definitely needs time and patience and I was running out on both of them. I realized I need to be flexible but this was an afterthought and at that point I was just concentrating on Hanle.

#102. From Chushul the route to Hanle comprises of two sections , the first is the totally dirt track through extreme wilderness along the Rezang La and Spangur Gap which mark the fringes of the LOC with China. This sector continues till Tsaga La after which we reach the village of Chagga where we meet the tarred road which then continues all the way till Hanle.

#103. Firstly about the route till Tsaga La. This route is one of the few remaining total wilderness routes when it comes to tourists, with no road except a dirt track made by the vehicles which ply on these paths, one has to be careful while transgressing this route as there are no markers to indicate just about anything .One can see the bunkers of the Indian Army on the right who stand guard the safety and sovereignty of our country against possible incursions from across the border. On the left the Rezang La mastiff rises and acts as the natural barrier for the LOC. It was here that the 1962 war was so fiercely fought and lost. The memorials at Chushul and at Rezang La bear testimony to the sacrifice and valor. There are no grand monuments constructed by the grateful nation in recognizing the sacrifice, no wreaths laid by National Leaders to commemorate the sacrifices , its only the Indian Army who still remembers and honors those who were a part of the family and are no more . Very poignant thought but that’s the reality in this country of ours.

#104. The scenic beauty on this sector is simply awesome whatever be the season, teeming with wildlife this is a place that makes one realize the seclusion that Ladakh once possessed. There are one two streams that need to be crossed which are a challenge to the INDOMITABLE but we were able to move on. The trick is to stay in sight of the telephone cables which are your markers and they will show one the path ahead J

#105. Tsaga La was reached by 1550 hrs and thereafter we crossed the ITBP TCP and for the first time in many hours stepped on smooth tarred road. The Indomitable roared ahead and we were on our way and what a change of scenic beauty , multicolored mountains welcomed us as we sped on our way towards Loma Bend which was reached by 1700 hrs.

#106. The distance of Hanle from Loma Bend is 55 km and immediately after the bend there is a bridge , beyond the bridge there is a V junction. The left takes one to Fuckche while the right goes to Rhongo and then to Hanle . The road surface is as smooth as the More plains and we were speeding on our way in the setting sun as it has been a really long day and wanted to reach the village before the sun set.

#107. Hanle was reached by 1830 and the path to the village is different from the one which goes to the Hanle Gompa. The diversion to Photi La is also out here and is distinctly marked. The road construction is on at Photi La as per reports from the GREF teams who are at work out there.

#108. So here we were at the extremities of Ladakh away from the hordes of toursuts who come tripping to Ladakh , here we were among those who actually inhabit this wonderful land and live their lives in peace. ODO for the day read 75900.

PRETTY HARNONG WET LANDS

REFLECTIONS OF BEAUTY

FLIGHT OVER WATER

MIGHTY PANGONG

CHUSHUL MEMORIAL

THE ROAD TO CHAGGA LA

FINALLY

FLIGHT IN FREEDOM

HANLE GOMPA , SOUTH EAST LADAKH

DO I NEED TO COMMENT

THE BEAUTY AT HANRONG

AT PLACES HARDLY VENTURED

OVER DUSTY FORGOTTTEN TRACKS

HE LOOKS

WE WERE THE VISITORS

THE KIANG , IN LADAKH

PERSPECTIVE

COLOURS AT HANLE

NO TRACKS OTHER THAN THESE

# DAY XI: Tang Tse – Pangong Tso – Spangmik

#83. The night was pretty cold and I realized the drop in temperature that we were goin to experience as we continued out path towards Eastern Ladakh right on the pheriphery of the International Border. The Guest House was very rudimentary and this was how it was going to be in the days to come. Morning we were up and by 0730 was ready to go .

#84. I had mentally composed myself to the absence of a proper navigating tool and had to now rely on the printed maps and local guidance. The electricity in all these places was only for 04 hours the entire day i.e. from evening seven till night eleven. Hence all the gadgets were to be charged in that slot and one had to get used to this kind of a schedule.

#85. Our route for today was along the Pangong Lake Road towards Lukung and then onwards to Pangong. I wanted to spend a complete day at Pangong including the night unlike a day trip for a couple of hours. Pangong had to be befriended in a stately fashion. So soon we were speeding on the road ahead and I missed the Tang tse Gompa completely having not realized its importance. The 800 year old Gompa clings to the walls of the mountains and is very colourful to look at . Also known as the Skoba Jigstan Gompa.

#86. The sun was up and the morning was splendid even by Ladakh standards , the golden vegetation on the mountains coupled with the multi hued coloured rocks and eternal blue sky provided a feeling that infused one with vitality towards life. In around an hour and half I was at Chiagar Tso. This jewel of a lake on the right side of the road is passed by many in their hurry to reach Pangong however it is prudent to spend some time here and soak in this beauty. The lake has the capability to mesmerize and I definitely suggest a stop here.

#87. After Chiagar Tso we continued our journey and soon were crossing the Pagal Nullah which was a mere shadow of its former self . I could see the power of the nullah when there was no bridge. It had the power to hold any traveler crossing it. If the bridge would not have been there the Indomitable would definitely have to deal with a stream crossing that was formidable and challenging. In the month of September however early in the morning the challenge were the rocks, for the water flow was manageable.

#88. At ODO 75590 I witnessed Pangong , the lake of ethereal beauty. There will be many lakes in this world which are far more beautiful than Pangong but when one is at Pangong he never remembers the image of any other lake existing in this universe; such is the pull of this lake.

#89. Pangong Tso which in Tibetian means the “ Long Narow Enchanted Lake” is a 134 km long lake which is situated in the border between India and Tibet. The lake is a disputed territory and the LOC passes over the lake.

#90. Lukung army canteen was reached at 1000 hours where we had a nice breakfast looking at the shimmering beauty of Pangong in the morning sun. Thereafter I went to meet up with the Army officers who were stationed there and after a nice talk with them I was provided with a escort who would take me to the Northern dunes of the Lake past the shifting sands where the INDOMITABLE could be trapped.

#91. The route for this lay on the way to Phobrong and after a while one has to take a detour eastwards towards the track which leads to the Army posts up in the mountains on the opposite side of Pangong. After some time I realized that it would not be prudent to take the vehicle further on tracks meant for stallions. We thereafter walked ahead and reached the shore of the lake. Out here we were in the confluence of Pangong with its water, sand dunes and towering mountains, a surreal feeling indeed of sand , water , snow and mountains of rock.

#92. After spending some time clicking some pics we made our way and thanked the army for their assistance and thereafter proceeded ahead towards spangmik where we then booked ourselves into the very first GH which came our way.

#93. The entire day was spent on the shores of the lake taking in the beauty of Pangong and admiring the vistas that kept changing. Lunch was done with the water of the lake lapping at our feet and gull flying overhead. ODO for the day stood at 75630.