Friday, 4 October 2013

DAY 5: RAMPUR – CHITKUL (160 KM)
Destination:  Chikul, Himachal
1.       As usual I got up early to catch some morning sun rise shots of the town and the surrounding peaks especially as the hotel was located in a good spot. I was able to click a few pictures but then again the absence of a good DSLR was sorely felt.
 
2.       My destination or the day was Chitkul in the Baspa Valley however the night before as I was glancing at the pictures placed in the hotel corridor I had come across the Bhima Kali Temple picture at Sarhan.On further research I came to know that Sarhan was only an odd 45 km from Rampur, so I decided to visit the temple.
 
3.       Accordingly we started from Rampur at 0800 hrs and topped up petrol at a BP petrol pump just outside Rampur. There are many petrol pumps at Rampur which is actually a good thing. From Jeori one needs to deviate from the NH-22 towards Sarhan.The historical temple at Sarhan is a centuries old temple and one of the Shaktipeeths.It is a fusion of Hindu and Buddhist architecture. The highlight of the temple is its all wooden construction. The temple also houses shrines of Lord Raghunath, Lord Narsingh and Lord Patal Bahirva.The darshan at the temple was the highlight of the past four days and I really had a good feeling offering prayers here. Post the visit we had breakfast at Sharma Bhojnalayawhich was in one word-awesome.
 
4.       Soon we were ready to roll towards Chitkul.We retraced our path till Jeori where we again rejoined the NH-22 and proceeded towards Karchcham from where we again had to deviate from the NH-22 and take a right towards Chitkul.Around 10 kms ahead of Jeori one is amazed with the road architecture, the entire sections of the road are cut deep into the mountain side with the huge uncut rocks hanging overhead as one travels on the road. I was amazed with this kind of road laying and proud of the people who made it happen and on the left in the valley one sees one after the other Hydro electric power projects, I feel Himachal is the land of Hydro Power Projects. The biggest among them is the Jhakri Hydel project at 1500 Mw which is mind numbing. I really thank the engineers who made this happen for sitting in the cities one never comes to even know on the scale these projects are done and the engineering feats associated with them.
 
5.       Post Jhakri the roads started deteriorating and finally vanished all together. We crossed the Wangtoo Bridge by 1345 hrs after covering a total distance of 100 km from the Hotel. As we continued towards Tapri, we were contemplating topping up fuel again as the petrol pumps were going to get scarce very soon. The roads were now under the charge of Border Roads Organization and no more under the state government.
 
 
6.       Tapri was reached by 1420 hrs and is at a distance of 08 kms room the Wangtoo Bridge. The going was real slow now as the roads were nonexistent and hence I was driving cautiously and getting a feel of the mountainous terrain. Post Tapri we continued towards Karchcham.
 
7.       From Karchcham we turned right and proceeded towards Sangla which is a major place on the must see circuit but I felt that more than Sangla it was the stretch between Sangla and Chitkul that was worth seeing. Soon we noticed a unique concept ,atleast for me .The apple orchards were way up in the mountain so the locals used a series of pulleys like a mini cable car to transport all the apples down below in to the valley where they were loaded into the trucks. The distance that there apples travelled through the air could easily be 3-4 kms and I was amazed with the ingenuity of it. We were indulging in a lot of photo shoots and running way behind schedule but then just could not help it, the places and the views were so breathtaking.
 
8.       Sangla had been cut off in the month of June or close to two months from the outside world and hence at many places the roads were closed due to rockslides and one had to take detours.Sangla was reached by 1615 hrs after covering a distance of 30 km from Tapri.It had started to drizzle by this time and we stopped to catch a breather and also have some chai and snacks as we just had not stopped for lunch on the way, not that there were many options available.
 
9.       From Sangla we proceeded towards Rakcham which is at a distance of 14 km and a small village.Sangla is at a height of 2621 mts above sea level and the mighty Raldang Peaks tower behind.It is a sizable town with numerous guest houses and also hiking groups come here to begin their treks.The Baspa river flows in the valley and it is one of the cleanest river that I have seen .The Baspa valley is one of the prettiest valley and I was so glad that I had decided to visit chitkul and Sangla contrary to reports that suggested that the roads were very slushy and risky.
 
 
10.   I did give a lift to a family of three going towards Chitkul and came to know that over 75% o the children of Chitkul were well educated and employed in good jobs. Reached Chitkul by 1800 hrs and the weather was extremely cold and chilly.Chitkul is at a height of 3450 mt above sea level and I now knew that I was no more going to go down wards in the days to come.
 
11.   Chitkul is the last and highest village in the Baspa valley and is next to the Indo-Tibet border with no roads progressing beyond Chitkul except trekking trails. So in effect I had journeyed to the last motor able road in this region of the country. The Baspa River rises in the Indo Tibet border and is fed by perennial glaciers up ahead. The raw beauty of the Himalayas is shown like a preview and makes one yearn to actually visit the Himalayan ranges .The booking was at Panchali resorts and soon we were unloading our luggage. It was quite a drive with my first experience of driving on dirt tracks the entire afternoon and evening. The Indomitable too was steaming by the time I reached Chitkul.Cooled it down and shut down for the day. There was just enough daylight left for us to walk down to the Baspa River and just reflect on where we were and feel content and satisfied.
 
 
12.   Odometer for the day. RAMPUR – 56521 ; CHITKUL - 56681
JUST A CLICK

@ CHITKUL

SIMPLE AND GOOD @ SARHAN

ENGINEERING FEATS

APPLES BEING TRANSPORTED

JUST A VIEW

CHITKUL - SANGLA

Add caption

THE INDOMITABLE

RAW BEAUTY

FOR POSTERITY

@ RAMPUR

JUST ME 

ODD VIEW :)

MARVEL

DESTINATIONS TO GO

CURVE

ANOTHER VIEW

HRDRO PROJECTS GALORE

KARCHCHAM DAM

DEV BHOOMI HIMACHAL

LOVED IT 

GLAD TO BE HERE

FOR INFO


SARHAN BHIMAKALI TEMPLE

BHIMAKALI TEMPLE

WELCOME

WE TWO

FOR POSTERITY

ROOM VIEW - PANCHALI RESORT

WOW

ME IN THE MORNING

AT JEORI

SANGLA VALLEY

EARLY MORNING AT CHITKUL-SANGLA STRETCH

CHITKUL

ROADS

ON A WING AND A PRAYER

KARCHCHAM

DUSTY YET STRONG

BHIMA KALI 

ROCK FACE

POSTERITY LOOK

LOVE THIS 

ROADS TO COME

ALL THE WAY

MY COMPANION

ROCKY AND RAW

PANCHALI RESORT

RAMPUR

AMAZING

LETS GO

VIEW IN EVENING

TO GO ON AND ON

SO TRUE

BASPA RIVER 

YEA 

WELCOME INDEED

TRUE

PRISTINE

WANGTOO BRIDGE

HYDEL IN WANGTOO

TOWARDS SARHAN

COLOURFUL

AMAZING NATURE

MOUNTAIN STREAM


Wednesday, 2 October 2013

SPITI EXPEDITION ( DAY IV - BAROG TO RAMPUR)

DAY 4: BAROG – RAMPUR (212 KM)
Destination:  Rampur, Himachal
1.       I had decided to wake up early to do some sunrise photo shots as we were now in the hilly terrain. Accordingly the alarm did go up and I was up by 0700 hrs to see if I could catch some sunrise shots. Though i was late yet the sun was not totally out and I seriously regretted the absence of a DSLR, the digital camera just cannot do justice to the beauty of nature.Anyways clicked some few pics of the fog rising out of the solan valley.

2.       Soon it was time to prepare for the day with the destination being Rampur. As was customary cleaned the car windows properly and had a thorough look under the bonnet as to the condition within and satisfied that all was ok decided to warm up the car and load up the luggage. Soon we were ready to roll. Our path took us to Khandaghat and then onwards towards Shilom Bagh, Kufri, Fagu, Theog, Narkhanda, Kingal and finally Rampur.

3.       We were now travelling on the NH22, which originated in Ambala .After it enters Himachal it runs through Shimla till the check post of Sumdo from where it turns right towards the village of Kaurik near the Chinese border which is around 40 km away. The village of Kaurik has since been abandoned and is now only used by the BRO personnel. There is some discrepancy on whether the NH 22 is also known historically as the Hindustan Tibet Highway  for near  the  the town of Khab just before the Line Of Actual Control the road runs for a short distance to the village Namgia and then on to the Shipki La pass , where it enters the Chinese territory. I actually could not find two separate roads and in my opinion both are one and the same.

4.       Coming back to the present day of the travel we reached Khandaghat from where we turned right towards the town of Chail .The left from Khandaghat goes towards Shimla which is 30 km far. The fog was slowly lifting up from the valley and it was a mesmerizing view and we really were in high spirits on this stage of the journey.

5.       Breakfast was simple consisting of parathas with curd and hot tea sitting in the sun. Now Khandagahat was 18 km from Barog and beyond Khandagaht we made our first mistake of the route, there is a place called Challanda from where we are supposed to take a sharp let towards Kufri however somehow we were not able to see any board detailing this and continued straight and reached the town of Chail by 1150 hrs.On enquiry as to the route to Kufri I was again pointed back exactly to the direction that I had come from and this caused a lot of confusion and I was perplexed. Initially I thought that I was being taken for a ride by the locals but then eventually I figured out that probably there was an intersection which I might have missed.

6.       So any way I retraced my path backwards looking for some sign board which would tell me the route to Kufri.Eventually after 08 km I was back at the intersection at a place called Challanda.The next way point was Shilom Bagh and I simply loved this name for it sounded so good to say aloud.Shilom Bagh is basically a small town that has some good resorts to stay and one can get away from the maddening crowd of Shimla and yet be close to all the action. I recommend the Toshali Royal View Resort.Shilon Bagh is 57 km from Barog.

7.       By this time i was seeing vehicle after vehicle laden with apples fresh from the orchids high up in the mountains being transported to the main distribution centers for onward transmission to the rest of the country .Kufri was reached 25 km later and now we were just engulfed by canopies of firs, birches and pines as tree after tree stood shoulder to shoulder like a great army waiting for some kind of a directive. It was a totally mesmerizing sight to see and the camera just could not do justice to what the eyes were seeing and words cannot even begin to make someone understand the feelings that were coursing through one.

8.       From Kufri our next target was Fagu and thereafter Theog.Pre Kufri we encountered heavy rains and this was my first experience of driving through a heavy downpour through dense woods with the mountain streams flowing all over the road. From Fagu which we reached by 1330 hrs we cut across in to the NH-22 which had come all the way from Shimla or we had left the NH-22 at Khandaghat when we took the state highway towards Chail.

9.       Theog was reached 30 minutes later and the heavy downpour had ended by that time and the odometer showed 111 km covered in five and half hours. So basically now one can grasp how the the time taken to cover small distances has considerably increased. As a tourist byte Kufri is long famous for skiing activities while Fagu offers the first views of the Himalayan Ranges. We filled up fuel at Theog for now the availability of fuelling stations would start reducing as we climber deeper towards the upper reaches of Himachal.

10.   Our next way point was Narkhanda which was is 33 km from Theog and is famous for apple Orchads.It is situated at 2708 meters above sea level and is surrounded by the Shivalik Ranges and one can see the Hatu peak (11000 ft) closeby.The prime apple belt of Thanedar is close to Narkhanda.Lunch was done at a small outlet on a rainy afternoon and thereafter we proceeded to purchase some Mp3 cds for as a mistake I has not carried sufficient collection with me. After a break o an hour we started for our destination Rampur. Rampur is situated on the banks of the mighty river Sutlej and there is a specific point from where one catches the first glimpse of this mighty river.

11.   The river Sutlej is the longest of the five mighty rivers of north India. The source of the Sutlej is Lake Rakshastal in Tibet. From there she flows westwards for 260 km and then enters India at the Shipki La pass and finally meets the river Beas and thereafter enters Pakistan after about 360 km from Himachal.Historically it is said that the Sutlej was an important tributory of the legendary Saraswati River. We had our customary photo shoot when we first saw this mighty river and thereafter she became our constant companion for the days to come.

12.   Rampur was reached by 1830 hrs and just before entering the town we visited the Shri Maharishi Mardini Mahalakshmi Temple while the aarti had just begun .The room was average and comfortable if I may say so but the lighting could have been improved. The food was hot and simple; a relaxed affair .The only down point was that there was no payment by card which I feel should be rectified .We went for a walk to the nearby market and the town main road just to relax ourselves .Simple town with bustling people is my opinion.

13.   Final Odometer read as  Barog – 56309 : Rampur -56521
SILENT SENTINELS

FOR INFORMATION

ON THE NH 22

CURVE ALONG

PRETTY HIMACHAL

ON THE WAY TO KUFRI

FOREST GLADES

DIVERSION TO KUFRI

PHOTO SHOOTS

SHILOM BAGH


APPLE ORCHARDS

TO RAMPUR

ROOM VIEW 

SHILOM BAGH

BABOO AND SUTLEJ

AND THE FOG CREPT IN

AT NARKANDA

PURE 

HE PROJECTS 

RAMPUR ON THE BANKS OF SUTLEJ

LETS GO

LOVELY SOLAN

MAHARISHI MARDINI MAHALAKSHMI TEMPLE


FIRST VIEW OF THE MIGHTY SUTLEJ

BLESSINGS ARE WHAT WE NEED
POSING ALONG 

BY THE SUTLEJ

ITS MOMENT